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This is probably one of the reasons why Centella Asiatica Extract has nice skin moisturizingproperties that was confirmed by a 25 people, four weeks study along with Centella's anti-inflammatory effects. According to the efficacydata from the manufacturer, 2% ofABS Imperata Cylindrica Extract (the trade name of the diluted version of the root extract)is able to increase the level of skin moisturization by almost 45%, which is 88% more effective than the untreated control. Bottom line: when it comes to vitamin C derivatives, MAP is definitelyan option. A study shows that a nail treatment liquide with 2% panthenol could effectively get into the nail and significantly increase the hydration of it. A super commonly used thickener and emulsion stabilizer. Even if it can beconverted, the palmitate part of the molecule is more than the half of it, so the efficacy will not be good and we have never seen a serum that contains a decent (and proudly disclosed) amount of AP. Its main job in skincare products is to moisturise the skin. Currently, algae extracts are mostly used asmoisturizing andthickening agents, but algae also have great potential to combat skin aging, pigmentation as well asworking as an antimicrobial. Also, it can help to increase the solubility of some other ingredients in the formula. As f.c. The KTTKS amino sequence is then attached for better oilsolubility and skin penetration to palmitic acid and BOOM; we getPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4. It does complywith the INCI standard (the official list about how ingredients on the product labels have to be called, the thing we help you to decodehere :)), but there are about20 000 different kinds of algae and an extract from them can be made in another 10 000 ways. So what's so special about GSPs? We could find one research paper to back this up: It has found that SC indeed increases skin moisture and had improved skin microrelief (the small wrinkles and surface irregularities of skin). The official descriptionin the Europiean Cosmetic Ingredientlisting is this: "an extract of various species of Algae; Extract of the Seaweed, Fucus vesiculosus, Furaceae". The emollient plant oil that comes from almonds. They compared four hydrogels with different moisturizer actives and although all the formulas did hydrate the skin, the one with Imperata Cylindrica extract performed less well than the same formula with urea or sugar-based hydrating trio, called Aquaxyl. Even if you heat it to 370 C (698 F) for 96 hours, it does notbudge. It can be produced from most vegetable oils (in oils three fattyacidmolecules are attached to glycerin instead of just one like here) in a pretty simple, "green" process that is similar to soap making. As you might guess from the pro part, its a precursor to vitamin B5 (whose fancy name is pantothenic acid). Though most research is manufacturer sponsored, the clinical studies aboutPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 are promising. A spray-dried or freeze-dried version of Aloe Leaf Juice. An amino acid that is one of the primary building blocks of hair keratin and skin collagen. If the product is too runny, a little xanthan gum will make it more gel-like. As for linoleic acid and the skin, LA is a really important little guy found naturallyin our skin. It's not clear whatvaline does when you put it on the skin, but as all amino acids, it must be at least a great skin hydrator. If that wasnt enough panthenol is also useful in nail and hair care products. The unsaturated (with double bonds) and hence less stable version ofSqualane is Squalene, youcan read about it here >>. As a clay, it consists of platelets that have anegative charge on the surface (face) and a positive on the edge. Probably thats why citric acid is usually not used as an exfoliant but more as a helper ingredient in small amounts to adjust the pH of a formulation. That is probably no coincidence. If you are looking for one, this could be your thing. We do a Best of INCIDecoder email once a month with the most interesting products and ingredients we bump into. It has a water-lovinghead with two water-hatingtails and this structure gives the molecule emulsifying properties. We have also browsed through Prospector to see what manufacturers sayabout their algae. If you wanna become a real HA-and-the-skin expert you can read way more about the topic at hyaluronic acid(including penetration-questions, differences between high and low molecular weight versions and a bunch of references to scientific literature). :) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! JavaScript lijkt te zijn uitgeschakeld in uw browser. Nice to spot on any ingredient list. In spite of this, if you search for "hyaluronic acid vs sodium hyaluronate" you will find on multiple places that sodium hyaluronate is smaller and can penetrate the skin better. Voor een volledige routine gebruik je daarna je dag- ofnachtcrme. Matrixyl - A 5 amino acid peptide with promising research showing that it can reduce fine lines, wrinkles and improve skin texture. As cosmetic chemistColins writes it, "its safety really is beyond any doubt". The manufacturer did several studies to prove thatArgireline really works and it does (just not as well as Botox). We especially recommend it if you are after skin brightening as this seems to be thestrongest point of MAP. Well, they aresuper-potent antioxidants, muchstronger than Vitamin C or Vitamin E. And if that's not enough, GSPs and other flavonoids in grape also show UV protecting and anti-cancer properties. Maar ook de vettige (acne)huid is een goede match met dit serum. Its traditionally used to improve small wounds, burns and scratches and its also a well known anti-inflammatory agent for eczema. Madecassoside can also help in burn wound healing through increasing antioxidant activity and enhancing collagen synthesis. What seems to be a true difference, though, is that the salt form is more stable, easier to formulate andcheaper so it pops up more often on the ingredient lists. There is also some research showing that citric acid with regular use (think three monthsand 20% concentration) can help sun-damaged skin, increase skin thickness and some nice hydrating things called glycosaminoglycans in the skin. Research also shows that it might be useful for wound healing as it promotes fibroblast (nice type of cells in our skin that produce skin-firming collagen) proliferation. An AHA that comes from citrus fruits. It's a natural moisturizing factor, a skin hydratorand might also help to speed up wound healing. The salt form of one of the main anti-inflammatory ingredients in the licorice plant, monoammonium glycyrrhizinate. Unless the brand tells you what they use, it's impossible to know for sure. We are highly skeptical what effect a tiny amount of AP has in a formula. Super common little helper ingredient thathelps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. In general algae extracts serve as moisturizing, emollient and thickening agents, and many of them also have additional anti-aging properties. It comes from coconut oil and glycerin, its light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. You canread a bit more about the juicehere. The study was a small (10 patients), double-blind experiment,and the formula did show some measurable anti-aging results. It is a so-called polyunsaturated fatty acid meaning it has more than one (in this case two) double bonds and a somewhat kinky structure that makes LA and LA-rich oils a thin liquid.It is also an essential fatty acid meaning our body cannot synthesize. As for skincare, it works as an emollient and skin-identical ingredient. Just for hard-core geeks, the main biologically active compounds are pentacyclic triterpenoid saponins calledasiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic and madecassic acid (also called centellosides). Maar ook de vettige (acne)huid is een goede match met dit serum. Its the - sodium form - cousin of the famous NMF,hyaluronic acid(HA). In-vivo (made on real people) tests showed that using 10% Argireline solution around the eyes for 15 days decreased wrinkles depth by 17%. So great in fact, that it surpasses the penetration of pure vitamin Cthreefold at the same concentration and it penetrates successfully into the deeper layers of the skin (that is usually important to do some anti-aging work). Wat wil je nog meer voor je huid? A double-blind study using a 2.5% LA gel for 4 weeks found a 25% reduction in the size ofmicrocomedones,the tiny blocked pores that can later lead to acne. It can bind huge amounts of water and it's pretty much the current IT-moisturizer. Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) It is also an essential fatty acid meaning our body cannot synthesizeit and has to take it from food. It was created in a joint effort by the Frenchingredient supplier, Sedermaand the cosmetics industry big shot, Procter&Gamble. We wholeheartedly support the rise of seedless grapes as fruit snacks, but when it comes to skincare, we are big fans of the seeds. Compared to the pure form it's more stable, has longer shelf life, but it's also more poorly absorbed by the skin. Moreover, derivativesnot only have to be absorbed into the skin, they also have to be converted into pure AA. It occurs naturally in certain fish and plant oils (e.g. It is typically used in tiny amounts, around 0.1% or less. It's definitely a goodie to spot on the INCI list. Pro-Vitamin B5 is a goodie that moisturises the skin, has anti-inflammatory, skin protecting and wound healing properties. Ideaal voor de droge acnehuid die een hydratatieboost nodig heeft! The basis for this claim is that it targets the same wrinkle forming mechanism (wrinkles caused by facial muscle movement) as Botox, but the way it works is very different. Its official functions include being a humectant (helps skin to attract water), emollient (makes skin feel smooth and nice) and skin conditioner(a catchall phrase for saying it does something good for the skin). A form of skincare superstar, Vitamin C - it has proven skin-brightening abilities (in-vivo) and it might be able to boost collagen production as well (in-vitro). Acne.org has this not fully proven theory that thanks to this, jojoba might be able to "trick" the skin into thinking it has already produced enough sebum, so it might have "skin balancing" properties for oily skin. n gaat het huidveroudering tegen, doordat de collageenaanmaak wordt gestimuleerd. Wax esters are on the outer surface of several plant leaves to give them environmental protection. This is not hard at all as plenty of nuts (such as flax, poppy or sesame seeds) and vegetable oils (such as sunflower or safflower) are rich in LA. Waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water and oil to mix together and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth. Saccharomyces cerevisiae (SC) is the fancy name for common bakers yeast.