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However, it is much better than no cam at all and many other cams won't get in spots so small. That doesn't bother us, but is worth factoring in if you're looking to balance weight and volume on your rack. Sadly we weren't able to get a set to review, as it'd have been good to include them. Desperation drove me back to them when my Black Alien finally died and I've been using a Black Revolution Cam ever since, which is - as you say - a significant improvement. I like the design, but they are not very flexible, and sizes 1 and 2 do not seem to fit as well as the Metolius TCU equivalent. As they're such solid units, including the stems, and they aren't subject to the same bending or deformation as the more flexible cams on test. We dont know where you can buy this item online in the US. 0.75 Green (23.1-42.1mm, 10kN) overlaps with green 0.75 Camalot C4 (23.9-41.2) but wider range, slightly smaller and much narrower headwidth. From the 0.3 upwards the double-axled design of the Z4s also gives them a favourable range to other cams on test of equivalent size. Olympus, what would it look like? *The blue Dragonfly is actually smaller than the 00 Dragon (only at full contraction of the Dragon and minimum contraction of the Dragonfly do they overlap!) It does not flex as much as the Dragonflys, Zeros or Totem Basics but it does a good job of solving the flexibility vs stiffness conundrum. Anecdotally, the lobes of the Totems do seem to have a more malleable surface which bites into the rock, and going on feel alone this might lead us to choose them over the Dragonflys for crucial placements which lack friction. The cam lobe material is just the right hardness to allow the rock to bite into them. This review focuses on two new sizes at opposite ends of the range. Another question I have since I've got some old BD Camalots: Green: Ringlocks Well continue to check all the major retailers and will update this page as soon as we find one. They have a higher strength rating than Metolius cams, but I have never fallen on them. The function of man is to live, not to exist. Wild Country Zeros offer an excellent set of micro cams which have the second narrowest headwidth in this test, although in terms of range they don't go quite as small as the Dragonflys or Z4s. That's pretty exhaustive! 0.5 Purple (18.8-33.9, 10kN) overlaps with purple 0.5 Camalot C4 (19.6-33.5mm) but wider range, slightly smaller and much narrower headwidth. On first look the patent-pending RigidFlex stem is a curious thing. Nevertheless, some other models in this review have narrower heads than the Dragonfly. They are, without doubt, my micro-cam of choice. But proportionately, it is still a big difference. With the biggest weigh saving of 28%, I mean, that is almost a third. That is almost unheard of. This is a big let down for a micro cam as it means that there is nothing to compensate for the pull on the rope on the cam, and so it's more likely to walk out of its placement than a cam with a flexible stem. This is actually quite a big consideration as, with the smallest sizes of micro cams, you're often placing them in very small and shallow placements, and this is going to either prevent you from using the shallowest placements or compromise the security of the cam in a shallow placement. There is a pleasing balance to head narrowness vs range, giving you plenty of placement options, and this makes you feel you are able to get maximum contact value for most cracks (even shallow ones), slots, pockets and shotholes. A large, textured thumb catch and trigger bar give slip-free placement and allow for independent cam manipulation. It's still holding together well after what must now be a few years of use (although it's worth nothing that it's not a cam I use all that often). Initially we weren't going to include the Totems in this group test, since their micro cams - Totem Basics - are no longer in production. Color-coded for easy identification and wide range of sizes. Got two of the very old ones and one new, yellow, one. In 2015 we gave Totem Cams a glowing write-up, praising in particular their high holding power and narrow head width. I'll try to find an old catalog somewhere Hey Luc, She was super happy that the cam held that real life test made her believe in the cams. (Nb. Great article, thanks for posting. You will find that the cam head width on the smallest Z4 camming unit (size 0) is same size as the C3 equivalent (size 000). But as you go slightly bigger, you will find that the Z4 units are slightly bigger than the C3s. Free economy shipping for orders over $50+ exclusions apply. How to use Black Diamond Camalot C3, care, maintenance, lifespan, inspection and retirement with instructional pictures. I'm still using some of the data in those tables, added binners and weights of all my gear. Anecdotally they hold well in a variety of rock types. which in turn is determined by the type of alloy used in the lobes and the features of the surface (e.g smooth, ridged). those which overlap with the Camalot C4 range) also have significantly narrower heads than their C4 counterparts, which would help in building a versatile rack. All Rights Reserved. The largest four Camalot Z4 units overlap in size with the standard Camalot C4: Like the DMM Dragonflys, the Black Diamond Z4 range offers three true micro cams (Green, Red, Gold) before sizes overlap with the Camalot C4 range. I recently was deciding which size of C3 to buy, and one thing led to another, and I created the following 2 tables. Read more The only exception to this is on polished Peak Limestone, where I prefer to use the standard Totem Cams - albeit in their smallest sizes. The Green Dragonfly is incredibly small, beaten slightly only by the smallest Black Diamond Z4. I would rather be a superb meteor, every atom of me in magnificent glow, than a sleepy and permanent planet. Collecting every piece of gear takes a little time. For finger cracks, if I think I am going to fall on a small cam, I want it to be a C4. . Innovative trigger keeper for compact racking with sizes #4, #5, #6, #7, #8. I know the Evolutions were a bit of a dud but all of the quality issues seem to have been corrected with the Revolution cams. We haven't fallen onto a Dragonfly in isolation, but we have fallen on clusters of gear which included Dragonflys and they've held fine. The rated active strength for the Z4s ranges from 5kN in the smallest two sizes to 10kN in the largest two (see the bullet points above). The smallest cam in the Dragon range is the blue 00, and for our purposes anything smaller than this can be considered a micro cam. So, Black Diamond have taken the X4s and the C3s thrown them together. They made the head narrower, the units lighter, very flexible once placed, rigid when placing them, made them very strong, and easy to identify. Its a no brainer. If you are after a cam that performs to a very high level, look no further. Easy to use, flexible when needed, light, an incredible design by Black Diamond. You will not regret your decision, a worthwhile investment. As a result, an if (!$('script[src="https://www.youtube.com/iframe_api"]').length) { Lighter sculpted lopes optimized for strength to weight, Color-coded for easy identification and a wide range of sizes. The Black Diamond Camalot C3 has the narrowest head by far, which makes it the best cam at getting in tight spots. The Zeros seem to deform and bend quite quickly. let tag = document.createElement('script'); From size 1 upwards they have grooved lobes which add some friction to smooth rock types. I'm a very visual person, so with my leading so far I'm just used to eyeballing the crack and then eyeballing the pro. We share the same experiences that you do on rock, ice and snow and these experiences push us to make the best gear possible for our worldwide family of climbers and skiers. The Dragonfly comes in six sizes, and overlaps in the upper end of the range with the standard Dragon cam: ReviewDMM Dragonfly Micro Cams If you're looking for a very solid set of micro cams and don't need to worry about flexibility, the Master Cams are a good choice. and the headwidth is roughly 20% smaller. We haven't deliberately fallen on all the cams but those we have done have held just fine. tag.src = "https://www.youtube.com/iframe_api"; At the larger end, Blue, Silver Purple overlap with smaller Dragons, so with the full range of six you're really well covered. (1), Comments Part of their high performance comes from the patented double-axle design, which lends extra strength, acts as cam stops, and gives these units the widest camming range on the market. If you were to compare the total weight of X4 range and the Z4 range, the Z4s would come in at 44 grams lighter, and you would have an extra cam. Whats not to like. Good way to find how to loose weight. On the upside they hold well, feel extremely solid, are easy to place and are very durable. The purpose of a micro cam is to provide protection in small placements, so it's essential that the device goes small enough to fit thin cracks. I'll be getting more BD cams as I expand my rack in the smaller range, so it is nice to have some schema by which to get familiar with my gear. So, what exactly is it that we're looking for in a micro cam? Backcountry Advocate ProgramBreaking Trail, Built-in cam stops increase safety in tipped-out placements, Thumb loops make placing easier and provide an additional clip-in for aid climbing, Ultra-narrow heads allow placements in pin scars, Shrouded double-stem design protects trigger wires, Click sizing chart link for range, strength, and weight info. I shall not waste my days trying to prolong them. Over Memorial day weekend in Zion, Lizzy really came to like the C3s after taking her longest lead fall, 20 feet or more, on to a marginal green 0 C3. Firstly, there are only two sizes below regular cam sizes - the red and the yellow - and so compared to the DMM Dragonflys and Black Diamond Z4s you have one less true micro cam on your rack. Cons: Heavy; expensive; smallest sizes tricky to place in irregular cracks. 0.3 Blue (12.4-22.6mm, 8kN) overlaps with the blue 0.3 Camalot C4 (13.8-23.4mm) but slightly smaller and much narrower headwidth. The Zeros have extendable slings which save a lot of quickdraws on your rack and help to prevent walking. Touch device users, explore by touch or with swipe gestures. A secondary, but important, consideration is head width. The ultimate weapon for thin cracks, pockets or pin scars on cutting-edge climbs and extreme adventures. In addition, they have the classic Dragon extendable slings which mean you have to carry fewer quickdraws on your rack, though they are a little bit faffy on such a small cam. I place small C3s occasionally on free climbs doubled up and equalized where there is no other option. The stem is durable; you can bounce test these and contort them and they generally hold up well. Blue/Grey (camalot color): Painful tips/tips This is cleaner and more useful, as comparing each brand's microcams with their own regular cams would require you to then compare each brand's regular cams to determine which sizes of micro cams overlap with which. tips, fingers, ringlocks, thin hands, hands, cupped hands, fists, OW+ - and their associated cam pro. Did BD change some of their cam ranges over the year? You'll sometimes hear this referred to as the 'action' of the cam. Purple/Green: What are you dragging me up!?!?! The Totem Basics are Totem's micro cams and we will provide just a brief overview as it's unfair to include a cam which is no longer in production. This could be expect for extremely small and light cams, and they're certainly still usable without any detriment to performance. As well as the Black Diamond Z4 cams having a smaller head unit, and being very flexible, they weigh less than the X4 camming units. Please see table below for comparison: With the smallest weight saving of 11%, which may not seem a lot. This version of the Camalot C3 0 is officially retired.You've found a page of history! If you know where to find this online in the US, let us know, and well add the link. It also goes down to a really small size, almost as small as as the Wild Country Zero. But will be rigid when the trigger is contracted. Here is where Black Diamond have taken the flexibility of the BD X4 cam units (once placed), and the rigidity of the BD C3 cam units (for ease of placing). The Master Cams also feature the Metolius range finder in sizes 2 up to 8. One good thing to mention as well is the jargon often attached to crack-size when looking over a topo- eg. for God's sake spend a week at Index or the Creek." Seeking the holy grail of a cam that has the stiffness to place easily, but with the flexibility to stay in place, the Z4s are the smallest cams on test and offer both the narrowest headwidth and the largest operational range for each individual cam. As such, when they're tugged by the rope on a wandering route, they're susceptible to walking - more so than a regular cam. Their stems are very rigid: the main wire of the stem is very stiff and it's then supported by two more seperate wires which combine to give an inflexible stem. I'm making a 'rack' part of my data-driven website for storing all of this (and more) and I was planning on regenerating my images dynamically with that data later, among many other uses for having such data accessible from a database with coding skills. As such you want the best quality you can get: in this test we take a look at some of the main micro camming devices currently available on the market. I recently placed this piece on the crux pitch of cloud tower and it was bomber. As such, my confidence was knocked in the brand somewhat. Camalots are as lovely to use as they are beautifully built. The new, redesigned Camalot C4 has now upped the ante, considering its 10% lighter yet just as durable as before. UKClimbing Limited. The difference in holding power is probably negligible to non-existent but it did mean that the single axle units inspired me with a tiny bit more confidence. Overall these cams are still working great after a year of use and always come along when thin gear is needed. How much more time you could have spent climbing cracks and figuring this out experientially rather than sitting inside with a tape measure and spreadsheet or whatever. ". Summary: Camalots are strong, versatile, and always reliable. To summarise the Black, Blue and Yellow Totems for this group test: they're bloody good. TECH SPECSColour0.4: GRAY 0.5: PURPLE 0.75: GREEN 1: RED 2: YELLOW 3: BLUEWeight0.4: 61g 0.5: 74g 0.75: 89g 1: 101g 2: 126g 3: 167gSize0.4: 15.5-26.7 MM 0.5: 19.6-33.5 MM 0.75: 23.9-41.2 MM 1: 30.2-52.1 MM 2: 37.2-64.9 MM 3: 50.7-87.9 MMStrength0.4: 8 KN 0.5: 10 KN 0.75: 12 KN 1: 12 KN 2: 12 KN 3: 12 KNMaterialAlloy & Steel. Gold: Perfect Hands Added some cool features to give you the Black Diamond Z4 cam. The spring which covers the stem is really solid and protects the stem itself very well. Unique thin-profile stems are laterally stiff for slotting in tight placements, but flexible over edges for an evenly dispersed load. Friends are the most iconic protection ever made. The Z4 lobes are made of a softer aluminium alloy (no anodising) than the C4s which gives a finish with 'more bite', and from the 0.3 upwards the Z4s have a serrated pattern on the lobes which adds to friction on smoother rock types. When you're carrying a double set of nuts, a set of cams, a set of quickdraws and a set of micro cams it all adds up. Overall we like extendable slings. To cover a range from 19-100mm (actually 19.6-114.7mm) requires 6 units with a total weight of 984g. We'll also look at these and their qualities. Though lockdown has prevented the usual mileage we would have hoped, the Z4s are standing up well after six months no inverting of lobes or bending of trigger wires (a good thing too, as it seems BD don't think they will be able to sell trigger wire replacement kits for the Z4s in the way they do for their other cams). They are great for aiding thin seams; in fact, some folks successfully aid on these with only two lobes in contact with the rock, but I cannot personally vouch for that. Simple is good. The downside of the Totems in this test is that they don't go as small as the rest of the micro cams, although that's where the Totem Basics come in. They stand up well to the extremely scientific 'place them and give them a good tug' test. And speaking of racking, were introducing a new innovative trigger keeper on sizes #4, #5, #6, #7, and #8 that keeps the big guys contracted for compact racking and immediately release when youre ready to place. The sizing of the Zeros is notable for two reasons. So is the cam angle for the Master Cams at an angle that doesn't push into the rock as well for holding the cam into the rock? Camalots gain extra range from the double axle, and also by slightly increasing the camming angle of some sizes. Just like their big brothers, these cams include a thumb loop to make placements easier and to provide an additional clip-in point for aid climbers. The strength ratings of the Zeros are similar to those of the other micro cams in this review. Unfortunately the different brands use different names to denote similar size ranges of cams. Again, being tiny, durability can often be an issue for micro cams. 6082 alloy does have a slight advantage over 6061 in that it has increased corrosion resistance. Micro cams are one of the most specialist - and among the most crucial - pieces of gear on a trad climber's rack. The sling is made from a material called Dynex, which helps with the longevity of the camming unit, from its higher abrasion and cut resistance properties. The cams lobes are lighter and more sculpted, optimized for strength to weight, while the slings have a visual update for easier differentiation when racking. I'm looking into building my rack and some of your insights are most welcome. The ribbed trigger and thumb rest are grippy and even the #000 fit my big mitts. I made these graphs over the one weekend since October that I couldn't get out climbing on account of the weather/partners. The full range of seven gives excellent coverage from tiny placements to slim hand jams, and if that's not enough, there are also five offset Z4s ranging from a 0.1/0.2 to a 0.5/0.75, providing extra for those exploring the dark arts of protecting pin scars and irregular cracks. Any info on the alloy used for all the different cam lobes? Posts in all Forums, http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/on/demandware.static/-/Library-Sites-SharedLibrary/default/dwaf34dfb1/images/tech-highlights/tech-highlight_S16_cam-chart.png, Free The 0 is about the same size as a blue Alien / 0 TCU. Trigger action is a big one for us at both the large and micro ends of the spectrum the trigger can get twitchy and therefore make it harder to place a cam. I've geeked out in a similar way to compare my Metolius and BD cams, with similar conclusions. Nice observations there. In general, we've found with cams that the narrower the head width the better - you can fit them in more places and they're therefore way more valuable. Although it is only marginal (see picture above, comparing the three smallest units of both ranges). Subjectively, the C3s feel good in the hand. single annual We have found them pretty confidence-inspiring in fiddly marginal placements (standard culm slabs), though thankfully, didn't fall test them. never tried Totem cams. All of the Black Diamond Z4 cams are a single stem cam, where on the 0.3 and larger sizes the wire has been twisted. This allows them to bend in all directions for maximum flexibility. The sizes 0, 0.1, and 0.2 have only a single wire. This means they perform to the same flexibility as the larger units. So handy. These two alloys are the same hardness and so the perceptible difference in the lobes, which may or may not lead to a practical difference, can't be explained by a difference in hardness. When autocomplete results are available use up and down arrows to review and enter to select. Are they that much better than than Dragonflies/Dragons/C4s? If branding was removed from Totem basics, Dragonflys and Revolutions (the three brands I'd look to buy) is there much in it? Micro cams are small. Welcome wilder one, you have successfully subscribed! It's also important to have a range of overlapping sizes in the 'micro' department: if there's only two sizes beneath the regular sized cams then you won't have many micros to protect that route with only small placements. There is precious little to fault and yet, somehow, I often found myself reaching for other units first. Not only is a cam with a smooth action more pleasant to use, it also often correlates with the individual lobes moving in unison, making the cam easier to place. It's also a big downside for aiders as you can't clip directly into it. These haven't got the same rock-grabbing teeth as the Dragons, but DMM say that their raw aluminium surface increases friction, meaning that the cam is more likely to hold on smooth rock types. Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming a UKC Supporter, or UKC Supporter Plus which What are the thoughts on Alien Revolutions? The worlds best-selling, most trusted cam just got better. In grams and ounces, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand. Grey: Fists to OW When you place a cam that small it can be scary to fall on. The lobes are still in good condition with no notches or worn patches but there is some deformation and twisting going on with the smallest cams. With the five cams in the Black Diamond Camalot C3 Package, you're covered from fingers all the way down to, 'Well, time for the aiders.' Is it smooth and slick or is it grindy and an effort? As with the new C4 camming units, Black Diamond have tucked the information tag on inside of the sling. This is so the tag does not get stuck on a carabiner. DMM did manage to increase the friction of the lobes their smallest cams with TripleGrip, however. To continue waxing lyrically about the other benefits of the Totem cams, their head widths are incredibly narrow (rivalling the Zeros), they are very flexible thanks to their stemless construction, their soft alloy grips very well, and you can even clip them on two lobes. Matte Black + ChromaPop Polarized Blue Mirror Lens, Matte Black + ChromaPop Polarized Gray Green Lens. Since the "usable" range is so debatable, all manufacturers now list the full dimensions to avoid selling themselves short. Hobart The Camalot C3 0 is no longer produced by Black Diamond and it is not available to buy from major online retailers. Comparing the strength rating with the cams from the C3 range, we can extract from the below table that the C3s are stronger. But to generate anything more than 5kN in climbing, you are talking about a fairly serious fall. payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on The Master Cams hold well and have good strength ratings. From the blue upwards the Zeros have relatively deep serration on the lobes which really helps with friction, and thereby holding power, on smoother rock types. As we already know, the X4s head width is already fairly narrow. Surprisingly, the Black Diamond Z4 have narrower head units. You will find the biggest difference in the bigger sizes. The Zeros are extremely flexible along the stem, although the spring which protects the unit forces the stem back into a straight position, compromising some of this flexibility - the Zero actively tries to straighten itself when bent. The sling colour scheme seamlessly links you in with the normal range continuum, and they have a chequered pattern which makes it easy to identify the Z4s quickly on a mixed rack. With both the smallest minimum range, largest maximum range and smallest minimum head width the Black Diamond Z4s seem to be the clear overall winners of the statistics war. It was pretty trashed after that. Sorry to see it go but Im still here. They can, however, be problematic in shallow, tapering, or irregular cracks, and they weigh more than the other options. Secondly, and this is something we have been really impressed by, is just how narrow the blue, silver, purple and green cams are. Master Cams are a really solid set of cams - which is both a plus point and their downfall. To give you an example of the forces typically generated in a climbing fall, and therefore the strength ratings you may want to look out for in your cams, here's a quote from the BMC's Technical Officer, Dan Middleton:"Most falls will generate a force in the range of 3-5kN A particularly hard fall may generate up to 6-7kN". They have also proven to be more durable than some of the other micro cams in this test seem to be, having been on the racks of many climbers for years. However, on paper there's no difference. (13), Expanded Range SLCDs (Omega Pacific & Metolius), Advertized vs. Actual Protection Ranges for Pro, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Aid Climbing, Big Wall. I think the Green is also my favorite C3 and it got a lot of use on the SW face of Conness, fitting in one spot that was surely too narrow for any of our other small gear.